Traditional Osaka-style okonomiyaki with pork belly, okonomiyaki sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and bonito flakes
Photographer: Piotr Półtorak Copyright: Traditional Recipes

Osaka-style Okonomiyaki

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Author: Piotr Półtorak

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Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き) is one of the best-known dishes of Osaka and one of the defining foods of Kansai cuisine. The name comes from okonomi, meaning roughly "what you like" or "what you prefer", and yaki, meaning cooked or grilled. The name reflects the flexible nature of the dish: while cabbage, batter and egg form the foundation, the additional ingredients can vary according to the cook, the restaurant and the ingredients available.

Osaka-style okonomiyaki is often described outside Japan as a Japanese savory pancake. The comparison is useful, although the dish has its own character. A relatively small amount of batter made from wheat flour and dashi binds a large quantity of finely shredded cabbage. Egg is added, and the mixture is cooked as a thick round on a hot iron griddle. Thinly sliced pork belly is traditionally one of the most familiar toppings.

Osaka Style: Mix Everything Together

One of the easiest ways to distinguish Osaka-style okonomiyaki from Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is the cooking method. In the Kansai tradition, the cabbage and other ingredients are mixed directly into the batter before the mixture is placed on the hot griddle. It is then shaped into a round and cooked on both sides.

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is prepared differently. The batter is spread separately and the ingredients are built up in layers, traditionally including a large amount of cabbage, pork and often yakisoba noodles. In Osaka-style okonomiyaki, the ingredients are mixed together before cooking, creating the thick, cabbage-filled pancake associated with Kansai.

A Dish Closely Connected with Osaka

Okonomiyaki is deeply rooted in Osaka's everyday food culture. It is not simply a restaurant specialty: it is also a familiar home-cooked meal. Across Osaka, families prepare it at home, while specialist restaurants cook it on large iron griddles. Many restaurants have tables fitted with a small teppan, allowing customers to cook the okonomiyaki themselves or keep it hot while eating.

In Osaka, okonomiyaki is substantial enough to be eaten as a main meal rather than merely as a snack. It is commonly cut into pieces with a small spatula and eaten directly from the hot plate or transferred to individual plates.

The History of Okonomiyaki

The history of okonomiyaki reaches back much further than the modern name of the dish. One of its commonly cited ancestors is funoyaki, a thin wheat-flour preparation associated with the tea gatherings of Sen no Rikyū during the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Funoyaki was very different from modern okonomiyaki, but it represents an early Japanese tradition of cooking a simple wheat-flour mixture on a hot surface.

Over the following centuries, various flour-based dishes developed in different parts of Japan. By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, preparations influenced by Western-style cooking and known as yōshoku-yaki became popular. These inexpensive flour-based foods were sold as casual food and could be topped with ingredients such as cabbage, green onions, dried seafood and sauce.

In the Kansai region, these simple flour-based dishes gradually developed into the mixed-style okonomiyaki associated with Osaka. Cabbage became one of its defining ingredients, while meat and seafood could be added according to preference. The dish became particularly important as an inexpensive and filling food during the difficult years around and after the Second World War, when wheat flour and locally available vegetables were practical ingredients for everyday cooking.

The modern Osaka style became firmly established during the post-war period. As specialist okonomiyaki restaurants spread, Osaka became strongly associated with the dish, and by the 1950s and 1960s okonomiyaki had become widely recognized as one of the city's characteristic foods.

Cabbage Is the Heart of Osaka Okonomiyaki

The balance between cabbage and batter is important. There should be plenty of finely shredded cabbage compared with the amount of flour. The batter is there to bind the ingredients rather than turn the dish into an ordinary flour pancake.

Use a sharp knife to cut the cabbage into thin strips rather than processing it into a paste. The pieces should be small enough to cook through but still retain some texture. Finely sliced spring onions can be mixed in as well.

Dashi, Tenkasu and Nagaimo

Dashi gives the batter a distinctly Japanese character and is a traditional component of Osaka-style okonomiyaki. Homemade dashi made from kombu and katsuobushi can be used, although prepared dashi is perfectly practical for everyday cooking.

Tenkasu, the small crisp pieces left from frying tempura batter, are another traditional ingredient associated with Osaka okonomiyaki. They are mixed into the batter together with the cabbage and add a pleasant richness to the finished pancake.

Many Osaka-style recipes also use grated Japanese mountain yam such as nagaimo or yamaimo. The grated yam gives the cooked okonomiyaki a softer, lighter texture. It is an excellent traditional addition, although recipes vary and not every household uses it.

Pork Belly and the Classic Toppings

Thinly sliced pork belly is one of the most familiar fillings for Osaka-style okonomiyaki. The pork is normally placed on top of the raw cabbage mixture after it has been shaped on the griddle. When the pancake is flipped, the pork cooks directly against the hot surface and becomes browned while its fat flavors the okonomiyaki.

Once cooked, the okonomiyaki is traditionally covered with a sweet and savory okonomiyaki sauce. Japanese mayonnaise is commonly added in a zigzag pattern, followed by aonori, finely dried green seaweed, and katsuobushi, thin flakes of dried bonito.

Pickled red ginger, known as beni shoga, is also commonly associated with okonomiyaki and can be mixed into the batter or used as a finishing ingredient. The exact combination of toppings is flexible, which fits the meaning of the dish's name.

Cooking Okonomiyaki at Home

You do not need a professional teppan to make Osaka-style okonomiyaki at home. A heavy frying pan works very well. The important part is to cook the pancake patiently over moderate heat so that the cabbage softens and the center cooks before the outside becomes too dark.

Do not repeatedly press the okonomiyaki flat with a spatula. Once it has been shaped, let it cook undisturbed until the bottom has browned and the pancake is firm enough to turn. A wide spatula makes flipping much easier.

The finished okonomiyaki should be cooked through but remain soft inside, with tender cabbage and a browned exterior. Serve it immediately while it is still hot, with the pork side facing upward and the traditional toppings spread over the surface.

Okonomiyaki in Osaka Food Culture

Part of the appeal of okonomiyaki is that it sits somewhere between restaurant food and home cooking. At an Osaka okonomiyaki restaurant, the hot iron plate remains at the center of the meal. At home, the same idea can be recreated with a frying pan or electric griddle.

There is no single filling that defines every okonomiyaki. Pork, squid, shrimp and other seafood are all common choices, while combinations are often named according to their ingredients. What makes the Osaka style distinctive is the mixed batter method, generous cabbage, hot griddle cooking and the familiar combination of sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and katsuobushi.

For a classic home version, however, there is no need to make it complicated: cabbage, dashi, flour, egg, pork belly and a few traditional toppings are enough to produce a very recognizable Osaka-style okonomiyaki.

Expert tips:

Use plenty of cabbage

Osaka-style okonomiyaki should contain much more cabbage than flour. The batter acts mainly as a binder, while the cabbage gives the pancake its characteristic texture.

Do not overmix

Mix the batter and cabbage just enough to combine them. Excessive mixing can make the cooked pancake unnecessarily dense.

Grate nagaimo for a softer texture

Grated nagaimo or yamaimo is a traditional addition to many Osaka-style recipes and helps produce a soft, light interior. It can be omitted, but it is worth using when available.

Use thinly sliced pork belly

Very thin pork belly works particularly well because it cooks quickly when the okonomiyaki is flipped and gives the surface a rich browned flavor.

Do not press the pancake

Once the okonomiyaki has been shaped, leave it alone while it cooks. Pressing it repeatedly makes the finished pancake flatter and denser.

Flip only when the bottom is set

The first side needs enough time to brown and firm before flipping. A wide spatula is helpful, especially when making a large okonomiyaki.

Storage:

How to store

Cool leftover okonomiyaki and store it in a covered container in the refrigerator. If possible, keep the sauce and toppings separate until reheating.

Shelf life

Keep refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Freezing instructions

Cooked okonomiyaki can be frozen without the sauce and toppings. Wrap individual portions well and reheat in a frying pan, oven or toaster oven until hot.

Recipe information:

timer

Preparation

20 minutes
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Total

35 minutes
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Yield

2 large okonomiyaki
4.5 (10)
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Okonomiyaki

Toppings

Substitutions for ingredients:

  • Dashi - Water can be used when dashi is unavailable, although dashi gives the batter a more characteristic Japanese flavor.
  • Nagaimo or Yamaimo - The mountain yam can simply be omitted. A small amount of baking powder can help lighten the batter, although it does not reproduce the same texture.
  • Pork Belly - Thinly sliced bacon can be used outside Japan, although thin Japanese-style pork belly is preferable for the traditional Osaka preparation. Seafood such as squid or shrimp can also be used in other okonomiyaki variations.
  • Okonomiyaki Sauce - A homemade sauce can be made from Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, soy sauce and a small amount of honey or sugar. Commercial Japanese okonomiyaki sauce is preferable when available.

Prepare the Batter

1. Prepare the dashi batter

Mix the flour and baking powder in a large bowl. Gradually add the dashi and stir until combined. Do not beat the batter excessively.

2. Add the grated yam and eggs

Add the grated nagaimo or yamaimo and eggs. Mix gently until combined. The batter should remain relatively thick rather than resemble a thin crepe batter.

3. Add the cabbage and other ingredients

Add the finely shredded cabbage, spring onions, tenkasu and chopped beni shoga. Mix everything gently so the cabbage is evenly coated with the batter. There should appear to be considerably more cabbage than batter.

Cook the Okonomiyaki

1. Shape the pancake

Heat a heavy frying pan or griddle over medium heat and lightly oil it. Add half of the cabbage mixture and shape it into a round approximately 2 cm / 3/4 inch thick. Do not press it flat.

2. Add the pork belly

Arrange half of the thinly sliced pork belly over the top of the uncooked okonomiyaki, covering most of the surface.

3. Cook the first side

Cook for about 4 to 5 minutes without disturbing the pancake, until the underside is browned and the edges begin to firm.

4. Flip and cook

Slide a wide spatula underneath the okonomiyaki and flip it in one confident movement so that the pork is now against the hot pan. Cover the pan and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes over medium-low heat, until the pork is browned and the center is cooked.

5. Finish cooking

Flip the okonomiyaki once more so that the pork side faces upward. Cook uncovered for another minute if necessary. Do not press the pancake down with the spatula.

Dress and Serve

1. Add the sauce

Transfer the hot okonomiyaki to a plate and spread a generous layer of okonomiyaki sauce over the top.

2. Add mayonnaise

Drizzle Japanese mayonnaise over the sauce in the characteristic zigzag pattern.

3. Add the final toppings

Finish with aonori and katsuobushi. Add a little extra beni shoga if desired and serve immediately while hot.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):

What makes Osaka-style okonomiyaki different from Hiroshima okonomiyaki?

In Osaka-style okonomiyaki, the cabbage and other ingredients are mixed into the batter before cooking. Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is assembled in layers and commonly includes yakisoba noodles.

Is nagaimo necessary for authentic Osaka okonomiyaki?

Nagaimo or yamaimo is a traditional ingredient in many Osaka recipes and gives the interior a soft texture, but it is not present in every household recipe. An Osaka-style okonomiyaki can be made without it.

What is tenkasu?

Tenkasu consists of small crisp pieces of fried tempura batter. It is a traditional ingredient in Osaka-style okonomiyaki and is mixed into the batter together with the cabbage.

Can I use ordinary bacon instead of pork belly?

Yes, especially outside Japan, but thinly sliced pork belly is the more traditional choice. Bacon tends to be saltier and more strongly smoked than Japanese pork belly.

What are the traditional toppings for Osaka okonomiyaki?

The classic toppings include okonomiyaki sauce, Japanese mayonnaise, aonori and katsuobushi. Beni shoga may also be used as part of the dish.

Is okonomiyaki really a traditional Osaka dish?

Yes. Okonomiyaki is strongly associated with Osaka and is recognized as one of the representative foods of Osaka and Kansai cuisine. It is eaten both at specialist restaurants and in Japanese homes.

Can I cook Osaka-style okonomiyaki in a frying pan?

Yes. Although restaurants traditionally use a hot iron griddle or teppan, a heavy frying pan works very well at home.