Kulajda soup showing mushrooms and dill
Copyright: Traditional Recipes

Šumavská kulajda - Czech Mushroom Dill Soup

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The story behind the dish

If you visit the Šumava mountains in the south of the Czech Republic, this soup is everywhere. People go foraging in the pine forests early in the morning, bring back baskets of fresh mushrooms, and throw this together for lunch. My aunt lives near the border and she makes it whenever the weather gets foggy. It is a thick, sour, comforting soup that looks a bit strange because of all the dill, but everyone gets hooked after one bowl.

Every family there has their own way of doing it. Some like it thin, others thicken it until a spoon almost stands up. I prefer it somewhere in the middle so you can still taste the mushrooms clearly.

The whole thing relies on everyday stuff you probably already have in the pantry-just potatoes, a bit of cream, flour, and whatever mushrooms you managed to gather. When it is fresh mushroom season, everyone in the village is out in the woods looking for chanterelles or porcini, so you will see different versions of this soup on every single kitchen table. The secret to the flavor is how the fresh dill cuts through the heavy cream, especially when you finish it off with a poached egg that bleeds its warm yolk straight into the broth.

Down in southern Bohemia, this is what people grew up eating. Local folklore says the name itself comes from how old-timers used to stir the pot to thicken the soup with flour, though some folks down the street will try to tell you it was named after a 19th-century home cook named Adelajda Kuhová who used to serve a famous version of it. Either way, it was born out of the necessity of cooking with what was right outside the kitchen door.

Getting the base broth right

You do not need fancy meat stock for this. The flavor comes from the dried spices, the mushrooms, and the vinegar balance at the end. I usually just use plain water or a basic vegetable liquid. If you use dried mushrooms, make sure to save the dark water they soak in because that stuff is pure flavor gold and should go right into the pot.

Other parts of the country make different sour soups, like kyselo up north, but that uses a rye sourdough starter which gives it a completely different kind of tang. Kulajda stands out from all the other Central European mushroom soups specifically because of that heavy handful of dill thrown into the sour cream base.

What to do with the leftovers

Kulajda actually tastes better when it sits in the fridge overnight because the dill and vinegar mellow out. Just reheat it gently on the stove. I do not recommend reheating the poached eggs inside the soup though, as the yolks turn hard like rubber. Boil a fresh egg for the leftovers.

Similar dishes in the region

In the Czech Republic, there are other mushroom soups with a similar character. One of them is kyselo, a sour soup made with sourdough. Kyselo has a different flavor, but it also features mushrooms and sour notes.

In Central Europe, you can also find similar soups combining similar ingredients. The differences stem mainly from the spices and the proportions of the ingredients.

Kulajda, however, remains unique thanks to the combination of dill and mushrooms. This combination is characteristic of Czech cuisine. As a result, the soup stands out among other dishes of the region. It still appears on restaurant menus and is still cooked in homes.

Expert tips:

Preventing cream curdles

Adding cold sour cream straight into the boiling soup often makes it split into ugly little white dots. Mixing a little hot broth into the cream beforehand warms it up gradually so it blends smoothly into the pot.

Vinegar adjustments

People have different tastes for sourness. Start with just one tablespoon of vinegar, stir it well, and taste it before adding more. It is easy to add extra at the end, but difficult to fix if you pour too much too soon.

Storage:

How to store

Pour the cooled soup into a container with a tight lid and place it in the fridge. Keep any leftover poached eggs in a separate container with water.

Shelf life

The soup keeps well in the refrigerator for up to three days. The dill flavor gets much stronger by day two.

Freezing instructions

I prefer not to freeze this soup. Cream and potato soups tend to separate and become grainy and watery once thawed out.

Recipe information:

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Preparation

20 minutes
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Total

50 minutes
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Yield

4 servings
4.2 (4)
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Ingredients

Substitutions for ingredients:

  • Wild mushrooms - If you cannot find dried forest mushrooms, brown cremini mushrooms from the grocery store work fine. Just slice them thin and brown them in the butter before adding the flour.
  • Sour cream - Heavy cream mixed with an extra squeeze of lemon juice can work if you run out of sour cream, though it will be slightly less tangy.

Preparation

1. Prep the mushrooms and spuds

If you are using dried mushrooms, throw them into a bowl with some warm water and let them sit for fifteen minutes to soften up. Chop your potatoes into small bite-sized cubes. Chop the fresh dill finely, keeping the stems separate from the leaves.

2. Make the soup base

Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Stir in the flour and keep whisking for a minute or two until it starts to smell like baked pie crust and turns a light golden color. Slowly pour in the water or stock while whisking hard so it does not turn into a lumpy paste. Drop in the potatoes, the soaked mushrooms along with their soaking liquid, the bay leaves, allspice, caraway seeds, and a good pinch of salt. Turn the heat down and let it simmer until the potatoes are soft when poked with a fork - usually around 15 minutes.

3. Whisk in the cream and herbs

Take a ladle of the hot soup liquid and whisk it into your sour cream in a separate small bowl first so it warms up. Then pour that mixture back into the main pot. Toss in the chopped dill leaves. Turn the heat down very low and add a tablespoon or two of vinegar. Taste it - it should be distinctly sour but balanced. Let it sit on low heat for two minutes, but do not let it boil hard now or the cream might separate.

4. Poach the eggs

Bring a separate small pot of water with a splash of vinegar to a gentle simmer. Swirl the water with a spoon to make a tiny whirlpool and crack an egg right into the middle. Let it cook for about three minutes until the white is set but the yolk is soft. Ladle the hot soup into bowls, place a poached egg on top of each, and garnish with a tiny bit of extra fresh dill.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):

Can I use fresh mushrooms instead of dried ones?

Yes, fresh mushrooms are great, especially in late summer. Just slice them up and sauté them in the butter for a few minutes before you dust them with the flour to build the soup base. Dried mushrooms give a darker color, but fresh ones have a nicer texture.

What kind of vinegar is best for kulajda?

Standard spirit vinegar or simple white wine vinegar works best. Avoid dark balsamic or heavily flavored cider vinegars because they muddy the color of the cream and change the traditional taste too much.

Do I have to poach the eggs?

Not at all. If poaching feels like too much hassle or you are feeding a crowd, you can just hard-boil or soft-boil some eggs in their shells, peel them, cut them in half, and drop them into the bowls before pouring the hot soup over them.